FIJI: THE FOOD

It’s warmer in Indianapolis than it is in Suva, Fiji. But that’s not stopping me from eating their food.  It’s been a fairly good week for us: I’m finally going to be able to get my proofreading business up and running, and we got a heck of a deal on a used vehicle yesterday, so I’m on a roll!  And what better way to celebrate than to eat Fijian food. 

There are no words for this. Divine would be an understatement. 

The first thing I made today was babakau so that we could have something to snack on while we waited for the rest of dinner.  I mixed my flour, yeast, and sugar together with some warm water until it became dough consistency, letting it sit for about 20-30 minutes to rest. I rolled the dough out so that it wasn’t too thick or thin, about a quarter to a half-inch thick and cut it into triangles. It’s really humid today, so the dough kept sticking and stretching. No amount of flour was keeping it from doing that it seemed. But I manage to separate them, deep-frying the dough pieces until it was golden brown. I saw several different options or suggestions on how to eat it, but I went with butter and jam (I had blackberry and mango jam). I thought about chocolate syrup, powdered sugar, or Nutella. These were extremely good. It somewhat reminded me of a fried scone.

The biggest surprise of the day. I didn't think I would like this as much as I did. I stand corrected.

Today’s main dish is palusami.  It calls for taro leaves, but come on, this is Indiana. I definitely had to substitute for that one. I used Swiss chard for this. I love red or rainbow Swiss chard; it’s such a beautiful plant.  I removed the stalk from the chard and dipped them in hot water to make them more pliable (it didn’t help much though). In order to cover any holes or tears, I doubled up on the leaves and placed them in a ramekin as opposed to making it in my palm. I first placed some coconut cream (which was hard to find; it’s not the same as coconut milk or cream of coconut, but I did find it in the Vietnamese/Thai section of the international grocery store), followed by some canned corned beef (I really needed to add more) and topped with diced tomatoes and onion and a little salt, topped with more coconut cream.  Then I folded up the leaves around it like a little parcel, using toothpicks to keep it shut as best I could. After wrapping the whole ramekin up in tin foil, I placed them on a cookie and baked it at around 350º for 30 minutes. The original recipe calls to put each parcel in a covered dish, so I amended it a little. It also said this can be served either cold or warm; I prefer warm. The flavors of the corned beef and the Swiss chard were new to me, but it was so delicious.  It just needed more corned beef. The odd thing about coconut cream is that it comes in a block, life tofu but not as firm. When I think of coconut, I think of something sweet, but this was not really that sweet at all.

What's not to love? If everyone ate this, there would no more war.  

To go with this, I also chose an Indo-Fijian recipe for Fijian potato omelette. I think this is normally served at breakfast, but I think it’s merely a suggestion. I started out sautéing diced onion and spices (including dried mustard, cumin, anise in lieu of fennel [my husbands HATES fennel], cayenne, ginger, garlic, salt, black pepper, and fenugreek in lieu of “curry”). After about ten minutes, I took it off the heat and added it to some peas and potatoes (I had to cook the diced potatoes first).  I beat six eggs in a large bowl, and then added in the vegetable-spice mix into the egg mixture and stirred to coat everything evenly. Adding just a little bit of oil into the same skillet I used earlier and added in the eggs and vegetables, letting it cook on low heat, making sure it doesn’t burn (a perpetual problem for me). It was supposed to cook for 8-10 minutes, but because it was thick, it took closer to 15-18 minutes. The recipe suggested placing it under a grill to finish it, but I’m not even sure what that means. So, I just skipped that and hoped it wasn’t crucial. (That philosophy got me through high school, college, and insurance licensing. And here I am, awesome as ever.) It took a little longer than it said. The top took a long time to get done (maybe this is where the grill was coming into play, perhaps?) When it was done, I cut wedges of omelette and served it as a side dish to the palusami.

The zenith of perfection.

Everything about this meal was good.  It was an excellent combination of flavors, and it was best to eat them together.  My husband and I agree that we need to make these again.  As I was shopping for my ingredients yesterday, I went to grab something to drink for the drive home. And of course, I saw Fiji Water. Seeing how I have never had it simply because of its price, I finally relented only because I was cooking from Fiji today. And after I took my much-anticipated first sip of this expensive bottled water, I realized one thing: it tastes like the cheaper store-brand bottled water I normally get. Well, I hope they’re sending the money back to Fiji and that it’s going towards the people there. Bottled water rant aside, this whole meal was surprisingly really good. Better than some island countries I’ve tried to cook from.

Yes, proof of purchase. 

Up next: Finland

FIJI: THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

Far, far away from Indianapolis, there is a place where the perfect panorama of calendar photos and screensavers are born.  It’s the place for lovers and those in search of ultimate relaxation; it’s the view of luxury.  To visit Fiji is to live the high life. But the island nation in the South Pacific is more than a pretty beach. Even though I think I need to go there and investigate this myself.

Where the name Fiji came from made me roll my eyes. The word isn’t Fijian at all.  They call their country Viti in their own language.  The word “Fiji” came from the English pronunciation of Fisi, the name for the islands that their neighbor Tonga gives them. 

Fiji actually consists of 322 islands (of those, 106 are inhabited), and they also include 522 smaller islets.  The largest two are Viti Levu (where the capital city Suva is) and Vanua Levu.  Most of the islands are spread in the same general vicinity, with the exception of the island of Rotuma, a special administrative region, which lies about 310 miles north of the main islands. The average temperature in the cool season stays around 72ºF. (This sounds absolutely perfect. I wonder if I can “work from home” from Fiji.) It’s home to many coral reefs and a wide variety of marine life.

Pottery found on the islands dates settlement between 3500-1000 BC, although it’s not exactly clear the order of migration.  Some historians believe the Lupita peoples, or early ancestors to the Polynesians may have been the first inhabitants on the islands; it’s also believed that the Melanesians were the second major group of people to land on the islands before moving on farther to Samoa, Tonga, and even Hawai’i.  Most of the islands in the South Pacific have been trading with each other from the beginning of civilization.  During the 19^th century, stories of cannibalism and fierce tribes kept many of the European steering clear of the Fijian islands. One of the most macabre characters from history is the chief Ratu Udre Udre.  He’s considered by the Guinness Book of World Records to be the “most prolific cannibal.” It’s been noted that he has consumed between 872-999 people, keeping a stone for each person he ate. He was under the influence of the crazy idea that if he consumed his 1000^th person, he would gain immortality.  (And who’s going to tell him otherwise? If you did, you’d probably be helping his cause.) It wasn’t until Abel Tasman (yes, the same guy who discovered Tasmania Island and New Zealand) set sight on Fiji in 1643, although he never actually landed there.  Most of the Europeans who landed here were missionaries, whalers, and those who were in the sandalwood trade and sea cucumber trade (apparently, there was such a thing). Eventually, the warring tribes ceased under the leadership of the chief Ratu Seru Epenisa Cakobau. The British then took over the islands in 1874, bringing over laborers from India to work the sugar plantations.  However, they also brought on a measles epidemic that wiped out nearly 40,000 Fijians (about one-third of the population at that time). Fiji was granted their independence from Britain in 1970, and since then, suffered through two military coups in 1987, another in 2000, and a fourth one in 2006. 

The capital city of this island country is Suva, on the southeast coast of the main island of Viti Levu.  Even though it is the capital, it’s not the largest city; that would be nearby Nasinu.  Suva is not only home to the nation’s political and administrative districts, but the larger metropolitan area is home to many of the nation’s top universities and colleges, business districts, shopping centers, and sports arenas.  In fact, Suva has hosted the South Pacific Games three times in the forty years it has been running.  The city itself is multiracial and multicultural, as is most of the country. Museums, libraries, parks, and theatres dot themselves across the city as well.  In 1953, Suva suffered through the most devastating earthquake in its history.  The 6.75 earthquake killed eight people and caused nearly a half-million dollars in damage (1953 figures in US dollars).

Fiji has an abundance of forest, fish, and mineral resources making it one of the most productive economies in the South Pacific.  The sugar industry is one of the nation’s leading industries; they are number two in receiving sugar subsidies in the world (after Mauritius).  The islands are also dependent on tourism.  Resorts and local transportation are also dependent on the tourism boom. Trade, international banking, investment, and housing are growing, but it’s still a criticized sector of the economy, especially under the rule of a military government.

A large portion of Fijians is Christian, thanks to the British influence. This is probably one of the few countries where the Methodist Church is the largest denomination.  Other denominations include Roman Catholic, Assembly of God, Seventh-Day Adventist, The Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter-Day Saints, and the Anglican Church. Of the Indo-Fijians, most are either Hindu or Muslim with a small portion of Christians.  Of those who practice Hinduism, most are of the Sanatan sect with a small number of followers of Arya Samaj sect. The vast majority of Muslims are Sunnis. Baha’i and Jewish populations are also minutely represented in Fiji as well.

Bula = Hello

The Fijian language is the official language of Fiji.  English and Fiji Hindi also have official status as well. Fijian is a part of the Malayo-Polynesian family of languages, and while there are many dialects, Standard Fijian is based on Bau, an island in the eastern region.

Professional golfer and champion Vijay Singh was born and raised in Fiji (he’s of Indo-Fijian background, although he lives in Florida now). Nalini Krishan is another famous Fijian – she played the character Bariss Offee from the Star Wars movies Attack of the Clones and Revenge of the Sith.  It’s hard to recognize her because of all the make-up.  Rugby is huge in Fiji. And by that, I mean, some ten percent of the population plays rugby and the others watch. Years ago, I was making my way through the American Film Institute’s “100 Years…100 Movies” list (the 1998 version).  Number 86 on that list was the 1935 film Mutiny on the Bounty.  While the movie is criticized for it’s historical inaccuracies, it’s been said that after Captain Bligh and 18 of his men were set adrift by the mutineers in 1789 off the coast of Tahiti, they drifted into Fijian waters and narrowly escaped Fijian war canoes. The International Date line runs just to the right of the island group, and was angled to include most of the islands; however, it does runs through the middle of the island of Taveuni – at one point, you can put one foot in today and one foot in yesterday.  And yes, Fiji Water, one of the most expensive bottled waters I’ve ever purchased, is actually water from Fiji. So, grab your Fiji Water, if your bank account allows, and follow me to Fiji (I wish that were a literal statement; well, ok, no I don't. I don't want EVERYONE to go with me. I'm way too introverted for that. Just keep reading, ok?).

Up next: holidays and celebrations