SINGAPORE: THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

When I was a freshman in high school, a high-profile case out of Singapore made international news. An American teenager going to school there, only a few years older than I was at the time, was caught as part of a group of rowdy kids vandalizing cars, tearing down street signs, and doing other stupid things. What was controversial was the differences in punishment between the US and Singapore. Basically, Singapore doesn't mess around when it comes to this kind of behavior: he was assigned to 4 months prison time, a fine of more than US$2000--and six strokes from a bamboo cane. Many Americans thought the caning was too excessive for a teenager. They did compromise and reduce it to four strokes. Although many Americans were upset with the way it rolled out, there were also many Americans who made the point that you are subject to the laws and ordinances of wherever you visit. 

The name Singapore comes from the Malay word Singapura, which is based on the Sanskrit words simha ("lion") and pura ("town"). For this reason, they're often known as Lion City, even though there were never really any lions in this area. The main central island is known as Pulau Ujong and means "island at the end" because of its location on the end of the Malay Peninsula.

Besides Pulau Ujong, Singapore consists of 62 other islands located in the Singapore Strait at the end of Malaysia and across from the Riau Islands of Indonesia. The Johor Strait separates Singapore from Malaysia and is so narrow, it pretty much looks like a river. Because of urbanization on this limited landmass, Singapore has lost nearly 95% of the forests that were once there. However, in the late 1960s, the government started promoting more green space and gardens, thus giving itself the nickname Garden City. The islands are in a tropical climate, so there are no distinct seasons outside of rainy and dry.

In ancient times, it has been referred to by many names and included as part of local poetry. Once referred to as Temesek, it was considered part of the Indian Kingdoms. Portuguese sailors arrived in the early 1600s and burned down the settlement known as Fort Canning, and the island was generally left alone for the next couple of centuries. Sir Stamford Raffles, a British statesman known for establishing British settlements in the East Indies, arrived in Singapore in 1819 and thought it would be a prime location for a new port for the British East India Company. The sultanate was unstable at the time, and through some shady finagling, he was able to secure the exiled older brother back into Singapore as long as they let him build the port. They did, and Singapore got its start. In 40 years, the population grew from around 1000 to nearly 80,000 as many people from all over arrived to work on the plantations (mainly pepper and gambier at that time). By the 1890s, rubber had become a cash crop, and this area became a global hub for it. After WWI, the British began building a large naval base there; it was finally completed just at the onset of WWII. With the Japanese invasion of British Malaya, the base proved to be moderately useful when the Battle of Singapore took place in 1942. However, it was a huge loss to the British, with about 85,000 captured and 5000 killed (mostly Australians, though). After the war, there were riots and revenge killings and general pandemonium. Food shortages, damaged infrastructure, unemployment, and disease didn't help either. The failure of the British to help rebuild didn't go unnoticed in the eyes of Singaporeans, and thus began talks of anti-colonialism and independence. Chinese communists began to fight against the government during the 1950s, and in 1959 they voted to be a commonwealth with Lee Kuan Yew as their first Prime Minister. At that time Singapore was part of the Federation of Malaysia (made of Malaya, Singapore, Brunei, North Borneo [British territory], and Sarawak [British territory]). However, Singapore disagreed with Malaysia on some key issues, and basically they were voted out. They became the Republic of Singapore in 1965 with that exit, and their first few years started off on a somewhat rocky start. However, it didn't take long for them to establish their place in the world. Their higher-tech economic policies helped push them from a third-world country into a world leader. The Port of Singapore is now one of the busiest ports in the world. Although they weathered through some natural disasters, public health and financial crises, they recently made the news a few months ago as offering a neutral ground for Trump and Kim Jong-un to hold the first meeting between the US and North Korea.

Supertrees a the Garden by the Bay

Singapore is a city-state (like Monaco and the Vatican), so it's capital is... Singapore. However it's divided into planning areas: 55 areas across five separate regions. Of these planning areas, Bedok is the largest with nearly 290,000 people. Singapore has become a world center for finance, education, trade, tourism, and often is ranked high on a number of global lists.

Singapore's economy is not only ranked as one of the highest in Asia, but in the world. It's often ranked as one of the freest and one of the easiest to do business with, and it has shown immense growth over the past several decades. However, it's also ranked as one of the most expensive cities to live in (they're also known for having the largest percentage of millionaires). It's viewed as a tax haven with low unemployment and is known for its zero tolerance when it comes to corruption. And it's for these reasons that nearly 7000 multinational companies have chose to create branch locations in Singapore. Because of and leading to this multi-ethnic environment, around 44% of the workforce consist of foreign or immigrant workers. There's no minimum wage in Singapore, believing it adds to the competitiveness of business, but what it really adds to is a larger gap in income inequality. 

Buddhism is the main religion of Singapore, with nearly a third of its population practicing it. Because of its location and history, there are quite a few followers of Christianity as well, followed by Islam, Taoism, and Hinduism. Surprisingly, there are a significant number of people who do not adhere to any particular religion at all. A Pew Research Center study concluded that Singapore is one of the most religiously diverse, yet conservative, countries in the world. 

There are four languages in Singapore that have been granted official status: English, Mandarin Chinese, Malay, and Tamil. Of these languages, English is the most common language in terms of government, business, and education. Documents may be written in the other languages, but it also has to be translated into English as well. So, it seems like while they're all official, English (which is based on British English) is a little more official, although Malay has been seen as a national language in the past. And most Singaporeans are bilingual between English and one of the other languages. 

I'm not a fast walker. Well, ok, I'm generally faster than kids under 10. But that's mostly because I'm only 5-feet tall. Anyway, I came across this article about a British study of which countries produce the world's fastest walkers. It studied adults who were not on their phones or carrying excessive bags and timed how long it took them to walk 18 meters (about 59 feet). Singaporeans came out on top, averaging the trek in about 10.55 seconds. That just seems insane to me. I would die. I'm only hoping that means they're on their way to eating some fantastic Singaporean food somewhere. Now, I MIGHT walk that fast if there’s food or drink at the end.

Up next: art and literature

MALAYSIA: THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

When I was an elementary school student, we used to have pen pals where we would write actual letters to kids from across the country or across the world. I had three, some I kept longer than others: Arlington, Virginia; Cebu Island, Philippines; and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. If I remember correctly, I wrote to a girl from the Philippines for the longest, but I believe the girl from Malaysia was the last one I had. Pen pals were great – it not only helped with letter writing skills, but it also allowed you to learn language skills and other people’s culture. But with all the technology we have, I think this seems to be a lost art. 

 

The name Malaysia came from the word “Malay” (as in Malay Peninsula or Malay people or Malay language) with the Greek ending “-(s)ia.” As the Europeans moved into the region in search for spices among other things, it took a while for people to finally agree what to call this area. It was generally some variant of Malaya, and eventually everyone landed on Malaysia. 

 

Malaysia is located in Southeast Asia and is divided into two regions: one region consists of the Malay Peninsula and is attached to the Asian mainland via its border with Thailand, with Singapore hanging onto its southern border. The other part of the country is located on the island of Borneo, the third largest island in the world. This island contains the Malaysian regions of Sabah and Sarawat along with the countries of Brunei and Indonesia. These two regions are separated by the South China Sea that runs between them. Because Malaysia is a tropical country, it has an immense biodiversity. Nearly two-thirds of the country is forested, and they boast a megadiverse ecology comprised of hundreds of varieties of snakes, frogs, birds, plants, and other wildlife. 

It’s thought that the first inhabitants of Malaysia were Negritos, a dark-complexioned people who have ties with Africa. Traders from India and China started moving into the area sometime during the 1^st century. They began establishing trading centers and outposts throughout the lands, spreading both Hinduism and Buddhism at the same time. Different kingdoms began to pop up, like the Langkasuka, the Srivijaya, and the Majapahit Kingdoms. The Malacca Sultanate was an important center for commerce and was the first independent state in the area. The Portuguese took over Malacca, and then the Dutch came in afterwards and took it for themselves. During the late 1700s, the British moved into Malaya and established the East India Company, taking Malacca, Singapore, and other nearby areas. During WWII, the Japanese invaded and set up an occupation over much of the country. Ethnic tensions led to a sense of nationalism, and although the British had their suggestions as to how to establish their autonomy, the Malays didn’t like it at all. After the war, the communist party built momentum in order to kick out the British. They eventually did gain their independence in 1957. Singapore, Sabah, and Sarawat joined in 1963, but Singapore later removed itself to establish its own country. The 1980s brought Malaysia a period of quick growth and urbanization in a shift to becoming more dependent on industry, manufacturing, and eventually technology. Although they went through an economic collapse during the 1990s, Malaysia now frequently makes the list for best countries to visit and/or retire to. 

With nearly 1.6 million people (and an estimated 7.2 million for the metro area), the capital city of Kuala Lumpur is the most populous city in Malaysia. It acts as Malaysia’s commerce, financial, media, and educational center. Many of the federal government duties are centered in the city of Putrajaya, about 15 miles south of the capital. Not only is the city on the Formula One circuit, but it’s also home to the futuristic Petronas Towers, the world’s tallest twin towers. They officially surpassed the Sears Tower in Chicago (No, I’m not calling it Willis Tower. Sorry, it’ll always be Sears Tower to me.) in 1998, and in 2004, the Taipei 101 building took the crown for tallest building. Located on the Peninsula, the city also acts as an arts and sports center for the country. 

Malaysia has an industrialized economy and is one of the stronger economies in Asia. It ranks as the 28^th strongest economy in the world, and some reports estimate that it’s well on its way to becoming part of the “developed” countries. It also depends on mining and agriculture as well: Malaysia is a leading exporter of rubber, tin, and palm oil. Tourism (especially ecotourism) also plays a factor, although recent mishaps with Malaysia Airlines led to a slight decline in flights. The country ranks high on retirement studies based on long-stay visas (up to 10 years!), warm weather, a modern infrastructure, and a large number of people who can speak some English.   

Although the country says it has a freedom of religion, Islam is listed as the state religion. Of those who practice Islam (over 61% of the population), Sunni is the dominant denomination. Because of its ethnic makeup and history, Buddhism, Christianity, and Hinduism are also significant religions in Malaysia. There are also smaller numbers who follow other Chinese religions and philosophies, such as Taoism and Confucianism. 

The official and national language here is Bahasa Malaysia (or sometimes written as Bahasa Melayu). Although the Latin script is used most of the time, the Jawi script is also used. Jawi script is an Arabic-based script used to transcribe several Southeast Asian languages. While English served its purposed once upon a time, it’s not used as much now in any official status (except perhaps in the Sarawak region). Malaysian English is based on British English but also uses elements of Chinese, Malay, and Tamil. The government doesn’t really like the use of non-standard Malay, but what can they do without looking like jerks? You’ll also find pockets of various Chinese dialects, Tamil, Thai, and other Creole languages spoken throughout the country. 

Malaysia is a land of tradition mixed with modernity. It’s a land of ancient superstition mixed with a fast-growing high-tech jobs market. It’s a diverse mix of cultures that still divides itself between Malay and non-Malay (bumiputra). It’s a country that uses herbs and plants from its ancient rainforests to make modern medicine. In one state, movie theatre lights are kept on to discourage people from making out, but in another state, there’s a tribe where the men pierce their male parts with a bunch of random stuff and show it off trying to entice the women. (Does this even work??) Perhaps it’s this dichotomy that makes the country what it is. And I’m excited to venture into what they have to offer and taste what delicious food they have.

Up next: Art and Literature

BRUNEI: THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

The island of Borneo, the third largest island in the world and famous for its spices and aromatics (as part of the infamous Spice Route), is occupied by three countries: part of Indonesia, part of Malaysia, and the entire country of Brunei Darussalam.

Brunei has been deemed by Forbes and the International Monetary Fund (IMF) as the fifth richest country in the world due to its petroleum and natural gas fields. It’s actually divided into two areas, three states in one area, and the state of Temburong separated from the others by a narrow strip of land belonging to Malaysia (it was lost to them in a war).

Legend has it that when Awang Alak Betatar discovered the area that later became Brunei, he yelled, “Baru nah!” which has been loosely translated as “that’s it!” or “there!” and later became Brunei.  Another theory is that it was derived from the Sanskrit word “varun” which means “ocean” (where the word Borneo is also from). Because Brunei is a majority Muslim nation, the second part of its official name, Darussalam, means “abode of peace” in Arabic.

The Sultanate of Brunei was at its strongest between the 15^th and 17^th centuries and was once a pretty influential power in the area. However, the Spanish declared war to take over their lands, including many of the islands that are now part of the Philippines, and Brunei lost several of those islands to Spain. The British also attacked Brunei a couple of centuries later over a dispute as to who was the rightful Sultan, but then several years later, Brunei was placed as a protectorate of Britain in 1888 and remained so for the next 96 years, until their independence in 1984. During WWII, the Japanese overpowered the British who were stationed in Brunei and occupied the small country until it was liberated in 1945. However, through all of these changes, the same family has ruled Brunei for nearly six centuries.

The capital of Brunei is Bandar Seri Begawan, probably one of the longer capital city names. Not only is it the capital city, but it’s the largest city in Brunei, with almost 297,000 people in the metro area (about the same size as Cincinnati, Ohio). This city is home to Istana Nurul Iman, the home of the Sultan of Brunei, one of the wealthiest men in the world. It also holds the record as being the largest palace in the world. Although it is not open for tourists, its expansiveness is impressive in that it stands in at over two million square feet (which is larger than China’s Forbidden City and three times as large as the palace at Versailles in France)! Among its features are 1700 rooms, a dining room to seat 5000, its own mosque, an air-conditioned stable for his 200 polo ponies, 5 swimming pools, 18 elevators, 257 bathrooms (if you can’t find one, you’re not looking hard enough), and his 2000 cars (including 20 Lamborghinis and 165 Rolls-Royces). His car collection alone makes Jay Leno seem like an amateur.

While the Sultan is obviously living very well, the people aren’t hurting that bad either. Citizens in Brunei pay $1 for a consultation with a doctor through its national health care plan, and if a service or treatment cannot be done in the country, then they will send you overseas for the care that you need at the government’s expense. Education from preschool through high school is also free. There are several trade schools, vocational schools, and a few universities in Brunei, which are also free to its citizens.  And if there is an area of study where there are no programs in Brunei, the government will send you overseas to get the education you want – for free. This is what’s called giving back to the community and to its citizens.  If you give the people access to affordable (or free) healthcare and education so that they’re not in debt for these basic amenities of life, then they will have more disposable cash to buy things, putting it back into their own economy, therefore strengthening it. It’s a symbiotic relationship, and kudos to Brunei for understanding this.

Universiti Brunei Darussalam

Because of Brunei’s proximity to Malaysia, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that much of its culture is similar. The official language is Malay, although the most widely-spoken language is Malayu Brunei (or Brunei Malay). English and Chinese are also widely-spoken languages as well.

The warm tropical weather makes Brunei a wonderful destination for that perfect unforgettable vacation.  The diversity in its cultural influences represents all of Asia. And since its independence, it has continued to improve upon itself, like showing progress in women’s rights and equality, for example. But don’t let the tropical winds fool you – there are some things they take very seriously. Alcohol is banned (from the Islamic influence on their laws), and drug trafficking and illegally importing controlled substances carry a mandatory death penalty. However, although it may be small, the country is much richer than can be counted monetarily.

Up next: Holidays and Celebrations