GEORGIA: MUSIC AND DANCE

Musically speaking, Georgia is divided into two regions: east and west. However, both regions share many of the same styles and are known for their vocal polyphony. 

Panduri

Polyphony is when each line of music has its own individual line, as opposed to harmony lines. No matter the region, a cappella singing is generally the form of a lot of vocal music, especially music before the 20^th century. Typically, this vocal style consists of two to four voices sung in a polyphonic fashion, but it’s also based on an ostinato bass and rhythmic drones. You’ll also find the use of the drones a common practice throughout much of the Balkans. In Western Georgia, they have their own type of yodel called krimanchuli that utilizes many of these contrapuntal and polyphonic features.

Another key feature is the use of dissonant interval notes. These include 2nds, 4ths, 7ths, and 9ths. They often make use of suspended chords, which gives a dissonance between the 4^th and the 5^th notes of the chord.  I remember reading about Albanian and Bulgarian music that these dissonant chords were often used in shepherds’ songs as a way of communicating to other shepherds in neighboring fields. The dissonant notes carried farther.

Tuning was originally based on perfect fourths and perfect fifths. This goes back to Medieval music traditions. If you listen to Gregorian (or other) chants, you’ll hear the how the music is based on this. However, traditional Georgian music is tuned slightly differently than the twelve evenly-spaced half notes that comprise an octave used in most of the rest of Europe.

Georgians view music as a social or community event. Whenever there is any call for a celebration –a birth, a wedding, a birthday– people gather to sing. Many times, small groups of singers are more popular, especially trios. Dancing is also tied in with social events. They have several types of dances performed in a number of situations: Kartuli (a romantic dance danced by a couple, slow and dignified movements), Khorumi (a men-only dance performed by as many as 30-40 men as a pre-war dance), Partsa (fast-paced, rhythmic, characterized by dancer’s ability for quick movements, incites a party atmosphere), Khanjluri (men dress in traditional red chokhas, the dance is performed with daggers and knives), Jeirani (a type of hunting dance), Davluri (a type of city dance), and Mkhedruli (a type of cavalryman’s dance).

Their music isn’t all vocal music however. They do play instruments as well.  Some of the most commonly played instruments in Georgian music are the larchemi (a Georgian panpipe), stviri (flute), changi (harp), gudastviri (bagpipe), chonguri (four-stringed, unfretted, long-neck lute), panduri (three-stringed, fretted, long-neck lute), and several different types of percussion instruments, such as the doli, daira, and diplipito.

One of the most well-known bands from Georgia is called The Shin, which means “home” or “going home” in Georgia. (Not to be confused with The Shins, an American indie rock band.) They represented their country in this year’s (2014) Eurovision Song Contest; however, they got last place and didn’t advance.  But I like their style. It’s a mix of jazz and blues with minimal vocals.  They have some interesting chord changes, something that stems from traditional Georgian music, yet it all seems to mesh quite nicely.

Another band that seems to find inspiration in some of their styles is called 33a. Minimal to a degree, at times it reminds me of Phil Collins or Sting. He also incorporates jazz elements into him music, and with his bass voice, it adds a unique quality to the music. He's actually pretty versatile. 

And of course, Georgians are not exempt from girl pop music. The band Candy fulfills it to every extend needed. Singing in a mix of Georgian and English, they remind me of Japanese pop music groups. A few moderately catchy tunes sung by cute girls is probably enough to draw the attention of teenagers across the country. It’s as my dad used to call pop music: bubblegum music.

Sofia Nizharadze sings entirely in English on the album I listened to called We Are All. When I listened to this album, I felt that it would fit right in nicely with early-to-mid-1990s albums, even though it was produced this year. She actually represented Georgia in the Eurovision Song Contest back in 2010, which brought attention not only to Georgian musicians, but pushed her own music career as well. In fact, she was a judge on the “Georgia’s Got Talent” TV show. Needless to say, she’s pretty popular.

I also listened to Lela Tsurtsumia’s album Yamo Helessa. She’s been performing since the late 1990s. I found her music unique because it’s a fusion of pop and folk. It’s a pretty good example of listening for the drone I talked about earlier. I actually really like this album.  I found the combination of strings and harp with the hollow vocal harmonies of the perfect fourths and fifth mystifying yet relaxing. In other songs, the traditional rhythms and moving flute lines reminded me of Renaissance dance music. It definitely made me feel as if I were part of something very ancient.

Up next: the food

GEORGIA: ART AND LITERATURE

Since the earliest civilizations, Georgians have been honing their artistic talents. Every group who came in and controlled this area left a piece of their own culture when they were here which stayed when they left. Because of its location, early influences on Georgian art include that of the Mesopotamians (now Iraq, Kuwait, and parts of Syria, Turkey, and Iran), Anatolians (now mostly Turkey, but parts of Georgia, Azerbaijan, Armenia, and Mesopotamian lands), Greeks, Persians (now mostly in Iran), Romans, and Byzantines (Bulgaria, Greece, Russia, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, Romania, Ukraine, Moldova, and Belarus).

Early art included paintings and mosaic arts of religious figures and scenes. Calligraphy and religious iconography were especially coveted skills in the church. Religious-based sculptures of prominent saints and Biblical characters fill not only churches but some more well-off people’s homes as well.  Goldsmith work was also very popular, especially in both jewelry and in small sculptures and reliquaries.

Towards the late 19^th century and into the 20^th century, Georgian art began to be influenced from other areas of Europe, namely the traditions coming out of the art capitals of Europe: France, Italy, Spain, and elsewhere. Russian art also had a huge impact on Georgian art, especially while under Russian rule. 

Some of the major Georgian artists include Gia Bugadze (muralist, painter, Rector of the Tbilisi State Academy of Arts from 2003-2012), Gigo Gabashvili (painter, first major painter to paint all different kinds of subjects in both oils and watercolor), Lado Gudiashvili (painter, used a lot of mythological influences), David Kakabadze (avant-garde painter, graphic artist, scenic designer), Shalva Kikodze (expressionist painter, graphic artist, theatre set designer), Niko Pirosmani (known simply as Nikala, primitivist painter, portrait is on the 1-gel banknote), and Sergo Tbileli (painter, sculpter, and designer).

by Niko Pirosmani

The earliest literature from the pre-Christian days was in the form of epic poems. Historical accounts, hymns, and stories about the royalty were also commonly written during the early periods of Georgian literature. After Christianity was introduced to the Georgian people, hagiographic and other religious writing dominated the canon of literature in the early centuries of this era.

from a Georgian-Italian dictionary

Secular epic poetry and odes were still probably the most commonly written works during the Middle Ages. Contributing to the world of prose with Book of Wisdom and Lies, Prince Sulkhan-Saba Orbeiani also created the first Georgian language dictionary during the 17^th century. The Georgian language borrows words from many other languages, but its grammar is unique in and of its own. (I wish someone would explain Georgian names to me, though. It seems that many last names either end in “–dze” or “–vili.” Does this have a particular meaning?)  Soon after dictionaries of Georgian to other languages began to be produced as well. 

Nineteenth- and twentieth-century writing shows many influential characteristics from styles that are commonly used in Russian literature.  During the Soviet period, Georgian writers and other intellectuals suffered greatly in Joseph Stalin’s “Great Purge.” Eclectic poetry and prose seemed to dominate Georgian literature during the post-Soviet years.  Donald Rayfield, a London professor of Georgian and Russian, wrote a book called The Literature of Georgia: A History, chronicling the influences of Georgian literature throughout the centuries. It’s the first of its kind written in the English language and a great reference in Georgian literature.

K Gamsakhurdia -- not a happy guy.

Konstantine Gamsakhurdia is considered one of the most influential Georgian writers of the 20^th century. Although he was highly opposed to the Russian politics of the day, he somehow managed to escape the fate of most other writers and intellectuals. He is most famous for his novel The Right Hand of the Grand Master and his post-WWII works The Flowering of the Vine and David the Builder.

M Javakhishvili

Mikheil Javakhishvili often shares the podium next to Gamsakhurdia as the other most influential writer from Georgia. Javakhishvili tended to incorporate folk language into his writing and his topics ranged from the differences between country and city life, rebellion, violence, sexual passions, and other taboo subject matter. This didn’t put him in the Russian’s good graces. He’s best known for his novels Jaqo’s Dispossessed and Arsena Marabdeli. Unlike Gamsakhurdia, Javakhishvili was not able to escape the grip of Stalin’s Great Purge; he was executed in 1937.

Up next: music and dance

GEORGIA: THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

I had to carefully word my search criteria this time because I kept getting recipes for Georgia Pecan Pie and Georgia Peach Pie. While those sound absolutely divine, it’s the wrong Georgia. The Georgia I’m talking about used to be part of Russia when I was in elementary school. And since I loved the food from neighboring Armenia and Azerbaijan, I’m presuming I’m going to love the food from here too.

While native Georgians call their country Sakartvelo, the name Georgia is named after St. George, a revered saint from the 12^th century. (In contrast, the US state of Georgia was named after King George II of Great Britain.) Unlike many countries, Georgia doesn’t have an official long form name: it’s simply Georgia. Simple like that. No need for unnecessary words and complications. The world is complicated as it is.

Georgia lies in the South Caucasus Mountains, surrounded by Russia, Azerbaijan, Armenia, Turkey, and the Black Sea. The northern border doesn’t lie far from the Russian city of Sochi, where the 2014 Winter Olympics were held. Offshoots of the Caucasus Mountains stretch their way through much of the northern regions of the country, giving some of the most spectacular views ever. These mountains also allow for the perfect breeding ground for volcanic plateaus, earthquakes, hot springs, and cave systems. In fact, Krudera Cave, located in the region of Abkhazia, is the world’s deepest known cave. Even though the country isn’t that large, has an incredible range of climates. The northern and western regions generally have cooler climes, having snowy winters, while the southern and eastern regions are more or less warmer in nature, categorized as humid subtropical. It also allows for a wide variety of flora and fauna. They are particularly known for the Caucasian Shepherd Dog, the Caucasian Leopard, brown bears, lynxes, many varieties of mushrooms, and the common pheasant.

The first time people wrote about Georgians was in the 12^th Century BC. Several empires and kingdoms switched hands at ruling these lands. In Greek and Roman history, this area was called Colchis, which is also the area attributed to where the Golden Fleece was located that was sought by Jason and the Argonauts. Georgians spent much of the first century trying to figure out who was actually ruling the country as well as turning it into a cultural center at the same time. East of Colchis was Iberia, different from the Iberia most people think of as being where Spain and Portugal are (I just read about this last week in James Michener’s book about Spain called Iberia.) During the Middle Ages, this area was divided between the Persians and the Ottomans at the same time. During the late 1700s, Russia began to move into the region and defeated the Persians, opening the way to take the country for themselves. Georgia declared independence in 1918, but soon after, they entered the Georgian-Armenian War and this time, found themselves as a British protectorate for the next two years. Once again, Georgia was invaded by the Russian Red Army, only to be later lumped in with Armenia and Azerbaijan to form the Transcontinental SFSR and then later renamed Georgian SSR.  Joseph Stalin came to power in 1917 and was also an ethnic Georgian. It’s still not uncommon to see statues of Joseph Stalin around the country. A 1989 peaceful demonstration ended in bloodshed, and that pushed the people to fight for independence once again and winning it in 1991. Their independence has been dotted with a civil war in 1995 and a conflict with Russia in 2008 in the South Ossetia area.

Located on the banks of the Mtkvari River, the capital city of Tbilisi is also the largest city in Georgia. With a population of about 1.5 million people, Tbilisi has taken advantage of the east-west trade routes since ancient times, making this a prime city for both business and cultural arts. Because of Georgia’s and Tbilisi’s long history of being a part of various empires and kingdoms, the city is multi-ethnic while Medieval, Classical, and typical Soviet architecture can be seen throughout the cityscape.

Georgia has historically relied on the land and trade for the brunt of its economic stability. Gold, silver, copper, and iron mining camps were established in the Caucasus Mountains, and wine making has been an old tradition Georgians take pride in. After the break-up of Russia, war and conflict has taken its toll on their economy. Trade with Russia also became icy: Russia raised the price of oil being sold to Georgia and also banned the import of Georgian wine, a trade relationship Georgia depended on. However, the country is grateful for a rise in tourism, especially to World Heritage sites such as monasteries and their numerous mineral springs resorts. 

The vast majority of the people practice Georgian Orthodox Christianity, one of the most ancient of Christian churches. There are also a sizable number of Armenian Christians, Muslims, and Roman Catholics. Strangely enough, there are also a small number of Jehovah’s Witnesses in Georgia as well; however, they are also the target of some religious discrimination.

The Georgian language is really unique. They use three alphabets whose invention has widely been attributed to King Pharnavaz I of Iberia. It’s the official language of Georgia and belongs to the Kartvelian language family. The really weird part of the Georgian language, is that there are actually words where there are eight consonants in a row: gvbrdgvni, "you tear us"; or, gvprtskvni, "you peel us."

If you’re into winter sports like skiing or snowboarding, then Georgia is your place. The second-highest peak in Europe is Mount Shkara, beating the famous Mount Blanc by over 1300 ft. These soaring peaks even found their way into ancient Greek mythology. It was considered the place where Zeus tied up Prometheus so that eagles could eat his liver. That’s pleasant. The Greeks also considered Mount Shkara as one of the peaks holding up the world. But that part may be true.

Family is huge in Georgia. While the people are generally friendly, conservative religious values are closely held, especially against homosexuality.  In a country with unreliable social services, people rely on family members to help them out. The food seems spectacular; I had a hard time narrowing it down. But I did manage to eventually get that accomplished.

Up next: art and literature

THE GAMBIA: THE FOOD

This search for a bread recipe proved to be harder than I thought. And I thought Gabon was difficult (well, Bhutan was kind of difficult, too)! I searched, and I searched some more, but to no avail. There simply weren’t any Gambian bread recipes on the Internet. I found many references to local breads such as tapalapa and senfur, or even references to bakeries in Banjul, but no useful recipes. And of course, I found all sorts of articles about how tapalapa has a bad reputation now: a few years ago, local street vendors who were making tapalapa in The Gambia weren’t exactly clean about the way they were making the bread to sell in the mornings, and it was making a lot of people sick. They don’t quite have the same sanitation regulations that other countries have.  But you know what? The US has all sorts of regulations on food safety, and we still have items recalled all the time, and moderately upscale chain restaurants still have people who get sick from their food.

Regardless of whether it's authentic or not, it was still good. And you can't go wrong there. 

Since tapalapa bread is also commonly eaten in Senegal as well, I started doing Internet searches in French as well. I did come across some information describing how it’s made, albeit it wasn’t exactly a recipe. It was the closest thing I could find. So, I ran it through Google Translate, and then made up the amounts of the ingredients based on breads I have made in the past. I have no idea if it’s even close (I had to make some substitutions). But without further ado, here’s the recipe: 

Beth’s Faux Tapalapa

Ingredients:

1 ¼ c wheat flour

½ c millet flour (I used quinoa flour)

1 ¼ c corn flour

½ c cowpea flour (I used yuca/tapioca flour)

1 yeast packet

1 tsp salt

1 ¾ c (plus a little more if needed) warm water

Directions:

-- Mix the flours together. Add in the salt, yeast, and water. Mix and knead until it

       comes together as a flour. I added in a little oil into the bottom of the bowl and

       rolled the dough ball in the oil before covering it in plastic and letting it rest.

-- Let the dough sit for about 45 minutes. Then knead it for about 3-4 minutes,  

       putting it back in the bowl to rest for another 45 minutes.

-- Form the dough into moderately thin 12” sticks (the size of a standard ruler),

       molding it with your hands, similar to a baguette. Then I placed them on    

       parchment paper on a cookie sheet. I let it rest for another 5-7 minutes while the

       oven preheats to 450ºF.

-- Once the oven is ready, bake for about 15 minutes until they are firm when you

       tap on the top.

It was so good, although it had an earthy quality because of the quinoa and corn flours. It had a definite crust that wasn’t too hard but was soft on the inside. I could definitely taste the wheat but it almost had the aftertaste of rye. I can see why tourists keep coming back to the tapalapa. (And yes, my kids laughed at the word “cowpea” and were glad I didn’t put it in.)

It seems like texture issues were the biggest complain, but I didn't think it was that bad. 

The second dish I started was Gambian dessert couscous.  I normally serve couscous in place of rice, and I usually top it with some kind of savory stew of meat and vegetables on top.  So, this was different to put something sweet on top. And it was actually pretty easy to make: I mixed together vanilla yogurt, sour cream, evaporated milk, crushed pineapple, nutmeg, and vanilla extract in a bowl and beat it until it was smooth. (I realized later that I forgot to put in the evaporated milk, but it was fine without it.) I put this in the refrigerator to chill while I cooked the rest of the food. Just before it was time to serve the food, I made instant couscous according to the directions on the box. It’s meant to be served with the fruit-yogurt mix on top of the couscous (or it can be served separately). I really liked this, but the kids weren’t so sure about it. I think it was a texture thing. And I have to admit, the texture threw me, but if I concentrated on the taste, it almost tasted like a pastry or rice pudding, or something. 

Now THIS was awesome. I still think it would be better with some added shrimp.

The main meal for today is Gambian Benachin. This particular recipe calls for chicken, but there are many other recipes that call for different kinds of meat to be included. First I browned the chicken and then set it aside. In the same skillet, I sautéed onions, minced garlic, and chopped bell peppers, adding some chili powder and two cans of tomatoes (mine were the tomatoes with lime and cilantro) a few minutes later. After about five minutes, I added in a little bit of tomato paste with a little boiling water and stirred everything together. I threw in a bay leaf, left out the Maggi cube (since it contains MSG), added in a can of sliced carrots, a quarter of a cabbage (shredded), some diced eggplant (just to make my husband gag, even though you really can’t taste it once it cooks down with everything else), and some salt and pepper. I let it simmer for about 30-40 minutes covered until all of the vegetables were tender. I served this on a bed of rice. I liked this, but I wish it had more spices in it. (I did throw in a little ground cayenne pepper, but it wasn’t much.) I loved how all the flavors came to together. I wish I had some shrimp to throw in there as well.

The final product. 

I was really happy that I came up with this tapalapa recipe myself and that it turned out really good. It made me wonder why no one has put this recipe up on the Internet yet. Perhaps because tapalapa was considered a “bush bread,” made primarily by the people who lived in the rural areas who probably don’t have Internet access or even reliable electricity in some places. And this bread is also typically baked in a wood oven; I had to guess at the temperature since I was making this in a conventional oven. But it turned out pretty good, even if it may not be truly “authentic.” But what is? As long as it's tasty.

Up next: Georgia

THE GAMBIA: MUSIC AND DANCE

Traditional music in The Gambia is very similar culturally to that of its neighbor, Senegal.  Certainly the most prominent part of Gambian music is the percussion traditions of the Wolof and Serer people.

The sabar is not only a specific type of drum, but it has also lent its name to the style of playing using this drum.  In saber music, the ensemble includes the saber drum as a rhythmic drum, but it also includes the nder drum that is used as the lead drum, and the tama drum (also called a talking drum – it has different pitches and timbres when you squeeze the sides of the drum, almost sounding like it’s talking).

In both njuup and saber music, styles commonly performed by the Serer tribes, music is divided into smaller motifs, each with its own meaning.  Tribes used to use this style of drumming as a means of communication between themselves and other tribes; these rhythmic motifs could be heard for up to 15 km (about 9.3 mi) away.  That sounds incredible, but I suppose perhaps the lack of noise pollution and their location near the river help the sound travel. 

The Mali Empire influenced Gambian music with the role of griots (sometimes called jelis). Griots were a type of historian-musician-praise singer-storyteller-poet.  They’re sometimes likened to what a bard was in British and Celtic history. 

Mbalax is a type of dance music that mixes Western style music with the sabar and other traditional musical styles of the Wolof and Serer peoples.

Gambian musicians started venturing into modern musical styles during the 1960s and 1970s. Among the first notable musicians include Guelewar (I can hear influences of jazz, reggae, American rock, African styles, and maybe even early ska, relies heavily on African drums and percussion.) and Laba Sosseh. I listed to two albums of Laba Sosseh and absolutely love it. It’s heavily influenced by jazz and reggae, and Latin music. I listen to his music while I work.

Other more contemporary musicians that I listened to are Ifang Bondi and Jaliba Kuyateh.  Both of these musicians tend to borrow from other African styles.  Ifang Bondi means “be yourself” in Mandrika, one of the languages spoken in The Gambia. They were known for incorporating traditional instruments, rhythms, and traditional styles into their music. Jaliba Kuyateh is extremely gifted at the kora, an instrument made of wood (originally, it was made from a calabash or goard), stretched with cow skin, and has 21 nylon strings. Eleven strings are played with the left hand and the right hand plays the other ten.  His use of the kora in his music has rendered him the nickname “King of Kora.” Foday Musa Suso is another kora player who performed years before Kuyateh. I love this instrument; it’s so beautiful. It almost has a harp-like or like a Russian balalaika even. I could listen to it all day. I highly recommend the album The Dreamtime for anyone interested in the kora. (It’s on Spotify.)

And The Gambia also has a sizable hip-hop scene, mostly influenced by the styles from the US, UK, and the Caribbean. And since I’m extremely interested in hip-hop music from other countries, I had to make sure I have some in my playlist. Unfortunately, I could only find one musician available on Spotify, and that honor goes to Singateh. There is a deep reggae influence in his music, and he also uses other featured singers in his music. I also noticed that his music isn’t strictly rapping; he also has many songs where he sings as well. I really like it. It’s pretty cool.  Like me.

Up next: the food 

THE GAMBIA: ART AND LITERATURE

There isn’t a lot of specific information on the art traditions of The Gambia. Many of its traditions are similar in nature to a lot of other West African countries. I’m trying not to say that there really isn’t any outstandingly noteworthy about their art, because I think there is probably a significant amount of art created there. It’s just that there really isn’t much that has been written and expounded upon in comparison to other countries. Like other West African countries, each ethnic group has its own set of masks for various ceremonies and functions. They are mostly made out of wood and painted with plant and other natural-based dyes.

by Edrisa Jobe

by Baboucarr Etu Ndow

Gambians are also skilled in arts and crafts and a variety of other art medium. Sculptures, dolls portraying traditional wear, and jewelry are often displayed. When it comes to functional art, Gambians make a variety of sandals, handbags, woven mats and material, and tie-dyed clothes. They also have a lot of traditional European-style paintings, mostly of African landscapes and people depicting typical Gambian life. Artists' styles vary from modern, abstract doused in surrealism but with touches of  primitivism. Watercolors seem to be a common medium. Some of the most renowned artists coming out of The Gambia are Baboucarr Etu Ndow, Bubacarr Badgie, Edrisa Jobe, Momodou Ceesay, Moulaye Sarr, Njogu Touray, and Toyimbo. Several cities have art museums and galleries showcasing traditional and modern Gambian art for both locals and tourists to admire.

Literature in The Gambia is either in English or in Arabic. Although English is the official language of the country, many Muslim Gambians are also starting to learn the Arabic language to better understand the Qur’anic verses they recite.  Literacy still remains a difficult feat, mostly because The Gambia still has a large portion of its people living in rural areas.  This makes it difficult for the access of schools and supplies. There are a growing number of elementary schools, but not as much access to higher education. Attendance is not required nor is it free. This is one reason why many have difficulty continuing their education. However, in most cases, it’s not for lack of interest. Most parents of school-aged children see the value in having both their boys and girls educated. Despite all of this, literacy is on the rise, although many of the older generations remain among the least literate.

University of The Gambia

Since the 1970s, there has been an increase in the number of people attending university and going on into educational fields and writing. Gambian schools often use textbooks and literature from other areas of Africa and Europe.  With this surge of college graduates, there is a push to create Gambian textbooks written by Gambian educators.

Janet Badjan-Young

And there have actually been many Gambian writers contributing to English-language literature (as well as some Arabic-language literature). Some of the English-language Gambian writers you might come across are Janet Badjan-Young (considered one of the best playwrights in the country), William Conton (educator and novelist, born in The Gambia, but of Sierra Leone Creole roots in the Caribbean, did most of his work in Sierra Leone and Ghana), Ebou Dibba (educator and novelist, was made a Member of the Order of the British Empire), Hassan Bubacar Jallow (lawyer, Attorney General for Gambia, writer, member of several International Criminal Tribunals),  Hanna Augusta Darling Jawara (nurse, playwright, fighter for women’s rights), Alh. A.E. Cham Joof (historian, author, radio program director, lecturer, known for his Pan-Africanism), Lenrie Peters (surgeon, novelist, poet, educator), and Tijan Sallah (economist, short story writer, poet).

Up next: music and dance

THE GAMBIA: HOLIDAYS AND CELEBRATIONS

New Year’s Day. January 1. Many of the younger crowd go out to The Strip in Banjul, celebrating until the early hours of the morning. However, I’ve read that it’s not the best area to be in at night in a crowd; it’s pickpockets galore and requires a lot of police action pushing the crowd forward. A lot of other people choose to stay closer to home or friend’s homes, eating a good dinner and having drinks. Fireworks are shot off at the stroke of midnight. People also visit markets and other activities around this time as well. 

You should check out the blog www.travelwithkat.com for a lot of good insight into staying in The Gambia.

Mawlid/Prophet’s Birthday.  Varies. During the day, people will recite meaningful verses from the Quran and participate in Gamo, religious gatherings that start in the evening and last until the next morning.

Independence Day. February 18. This marks the day that The Gambia, the first country taken control by the British, gained its full independence from Britain in 1965. (This is also my husband’s birthday, just not the same year.) Parades, especially through MacCarthy Square in Banjul are an annual tradition. The country is decorated in the flag and its colors. Historical presentations and storytelling about the events that took place are often shown with traditional cultural and musical presentations.

Good Friday/Easter. Varies. Although Christians are a minority in The Gambia, most shops and other businesses are closed on this day, except for essential businesses and shops. Most Christians will attend special Good Friday services, generally a solemn day. Easter is far livelier. Christians wake up early to attend special services in the morning. Part of the traditions is to drink the juice from the baobab called nanburu. It’s passed on to neighbors and friends as a way of giving alms.

Labour Day.  May 1. This holiday celebrates the worker and the labor movement in general. It’s also a time when labor issues are addressed as well.

Africa Day.  May 25. This day was founded after the Organization of African Unity was established. This was the predecessor of the African Union. Each year, there is a theme celebrated by most African countries and those who live in its Diaspora. Many Gambians will dress in traditional clothes and participate in cultural performances, African drumming, and other cultural/historical displays.

Revelation of the Qur’an (Laylat al Qadr). Varies.  Also called Night of Power or Night of Destiny. This holiday celebrates when the Qur’an was revealed to the Prophet Muhammad. Many Muslims also believe that this night marks how the next year will go for them. Most people often spend this evening praying for mercy and salvation and special blessings for the coming year.

Eid al Fitr. Varies. This day marks the end of Ramadan, the Muslim month-long fasting period; also called Koriteh in The Gambia. People will wear new clothes to attend special prayer services at their local mosque. Giving alms is also a commonplace event; needy people will often congregate outside of mosques to take advantage of these generous acts. Children will often go door-to-door asking for treats or money as well.

Revolution Day.  July 22. In 1994, Lt. Yahya Jammeh led a coup to take over the government, and the people later elected Jammeh as president. A park in Banjul, formerly known as MacCarthy Square, was renamed July 22 Square. A public art piece called Arch 22, commissioned by the president, is one of the most famous pieces in the city of Banjul. In the past, there have been cultural displays around the capital and other cities in the country, but many criticize the holiday, citing that it celebrates the military coups.

Assumption.  August 15.  Known as Sang Marie in The Gambia and Senegal, this holiday is based on the Christian view that this is the day Mary, mother of Jesus, was raised into heaven after her death. Christians will often attend special Assumption services at their church.  In Banjul, some churches in the area will gather together during the late afternoon at the Arch 22 to begin the procession. Following this, the atmosphere changes to more of a festive aura with music, dancing, and food/drink lasting until late into the night.

Eid al Adha. Varies. Also called Tabaski, this holiday is almost as big as Christmas. Based on the story of Abraham almost sacrificing his only son, animals are slaughtered in a religious ceremony in order to divide up its meat, giving some to family, friends, and charity. A lot of money is spent on new clothes and little gifts for loved ones.

Ashura.  Varies. Also called Islamic New Year. Ashura’s roots are different depending on whether you are a Sunni or a Shia. For Sunnis, it marks the day that Moses was saved by the Egyptians and the day that Noah finally left his ark. For Shias, it marks the martyrdom of Muhammad’s grandson, Hussaine ibn Ali. Many people choose to fast on this day and recite verses from the Qur’an, and others use this day to visit friends and family. It’s also customary to wish people good health and well-wishes for the coming year.

Christmas tree made of recycled bottles. It reminds me of one of those Redneck Christmas Trees made from beer cans. Still kind of  cool, though, especially with the lights.

Christmas.  December 25.  Many of the Christmas decorations that are put up in people’s homes and cities resemble those of European or Western style: Christmas lights, tinsel, holly, etc. Restaurants and hotels may bring out special menus for the Christmas season, full of delicacies and other specialty items. Banjul is famous for its Fanal parades, where children and adults float boats made of paper and bamboo. Dancing is also important to the season and many different kinds of indigenous dances are performed in the street and during festivities.

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