FIJI: ART AND LITERATURE

The earliest form of art found in Fiji is pottery.  Men typically excavate the clay used for pottery, but for the most part, the women are almost solely the potters. They will often have to work the clay by adding sand, kneading it, and letting it dry to get it to just the right texture needed to form pottery.  Unlike other cultures, Fijians do not glaze their work; instead they take certain plants and rub it onto the finished product to give it a varnished look as well as a waterproof quality.

By the time a girl growing up in the village reaches the age of ten, she will be taught mat and basket weaving. Palm fronds or pandanus leaves are usually used for this because of their abundance on the island. These mats are vital to every home: it’s used as floor coverings, bedding mats, fans, and baskets.  In fact, they are so important to the home, the mat’s quality and quantity are included in the “wealth” of a family and often given as gifts at weddings, funerals, births, and other special events.

A type of cloth made from stripped bark from trees is known as masi or tapa. Mostly from mulberry trees, women will take this bark, strip it, soak it, beat it to a pulp (literally), and roll it out, like paper.  This fabric is then used for many purposes, such as ceremonial wear, wall decorations, wall decorations, tablemats, handbags, etc.

Woodcarving is also an important art in Fijian history, albeit a declining one. One of the most important pieces of woodcarving in Fijian society was the war club. It was a highly decorated instrument that not only doubled as a weapon, but as a symbol of authority and used in ceremonial dances. Today, yaqona bowls (also called tanoa) are some of the most commonly carved works of art.

In many countries that were under European rule, they were also introduced to art in a modern, European sense. And many of these countries also go through a period of revival of the traditional arts, especially when they are granted independence. It wasn’t so with Fiji. The main reason being that they never stopped pursuing their traditional art forms. And while there may be Fijian painters and sculptor actively working and creating European-style art, traditional arts still won out over European-influenced styles and techniques overall.

Fijian literature didn’t get started until just before they separated from Britain. The University of the South Pacific wasn’t founded until 1968, when Fijians had the opportunity to learn creative writing and literature courses were available. Before this, Fijian literature mostly only existed as stories passed down by word of mouth. Soon after independence, publishing companies and literary magazines popped up around the islands. Literary societies started promoting not only their own writing but also literature of the Pacific Islanders in general. Much of Fijian literature is either written in English, Fijian, or in Hindi (and some poets even mix languages).

Some of the well-known authors from Fiji include Raymond Pillai (short stories), Subramani (short stories, novels), Pio Manoa (poetry), Vilsoni Hereniko (playwright), Satendra Nandan (poetry, novels), Sudesh Mishra (poetry), Larry Thomas (playwright, director), and Joseph Veramo (novels, short stories).

Up next: music and dance

FIJI: HOLIDAYS AND CELEBRATIONS

New Year’s Day.  January 1. In Fiji, some people celebrate New Year’s for a week. Everyone’s cultures contribute to the New Year’s celebrations. And no matter what your background is, dancing is almost always a part of the traditions. Traditional food is eaten (with the hands), and many Fijians celebrate with their national drink called Kava (or Yaqona). 

Prophet Muhammad’s Birthday. Varies (January/February). Many events are held on several islands around Fiji, organized by the Fiji Muslim League. Special prayer services are held, and people listen to stories of the Prophet’s life and lessons.

Good Friday/Easter.  Varies (March/April). In many villages, Easter is a time to wear your best clothes and attend a special Easter service at church, followed by a communal luncheon.  Music and dance are almost always a part of the celebrations as well. One of the annual traditions is called the Crosswalk, in representation of the walk that Jesus took. A few people are chosen to carry a large wooden cross while others follow along the 200 km (124 mi) of Queens Road. (Wow. And I get tired just going grocery shopping with both kids.)

Ratu Sir Lala Sukuna Day. Last Monday in May.  This is no longer a public holiday as of 2010. Ratu Sir Lala Sukuna is considered the father of modern Fiji, the first modern statesmen. Speeches and cultural events started about a week beforehand, leading up to the holiday itself. In March of 2010, Commodore Voreqe Bainimarama declared that this day and National Youth Day didn’t need a day off of work in order to celebrate it. Party pooper.

National Youth Day.  May 4. This is no longer a public holiday as of 2010 (see note above). This holiday is a celebration of the nation’s youth, who make up a large portion of the population.  Each island or city would have its own celebrations and activities aimed towards the youth: mural painting, marches, team-building activities, concerts, dances, storytelling, etc. The theme changes every year, but always has something to do with solving community problems, education, and making a better community. 

Queen’s Birthday.  June 15. Although Fiji is no longer under British rule, they still celebrated the Queen’s Birthday. However, Commodore Bainimarama abolished this as an official holiday in 2012.  The military government also took her image off of their currency, replacing it with representations of local flora and fauna.

Fiji Day. October 10. This day commemorates the declaration of independence from Britain in 1970.  The week leading up to it is called Fiji Week. It’s become a celebration of Fiji’s ethnic and religious diversity.  Religious ceremonies and cultural festivals fill the week, along with traditional food and drink, music and dance.

Diwali. Varies (October/November). Diwali is a Hindu festival, also known as the “Festival of Lights,” in honor of Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity. Although it’s a Hindu holiday, it’s also celebrated by non-Hindus. Fijian Hindus will often invite their neighbors (whether Hindu or not) over to enjoy the sweet treats of Diwali.  Schools and communities will often have Diwali activities for people to participate in and enjoy. People will also spend the days before the holiday cleaning and decorating their homes, then wearing new clothes for Diwali festivities. 

Christmas. December 25. Fijians tend to celebrate Christmas on a lower scale than other countries do. It’s more about spending time with family rather than on expensive gifts and wild decorations. Some may do these things as well, but on a much smaller scale. Many people attend the Christmas Eve Midnight Mass and sing Christmas carols. At night, children wait for Santa to bring a small assortment of gifts and toys during the night.  Fijians celebrate this holiday the way I love: with a lot of food! People eat all day and drink a lot of grog and kava. And they usually continue eating and drinking until the night. And then the next day, repeat.

Kava, the national drink.

Boxing Day. December 26. This is one of those holidays introduced by the British. In Fiji, it’s generally spent as the second day of Christmas: relaxing, perhaps working off that food and grog hangover/coma. For those who didn’t over-indulge on Christmas, the day is usually spent having a picnic at the beach and perhaps a swim.

Up next: art and literature

FIJI: THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

Far, far away from Indianapolis, there is a place where the perfect panorama of calendar photos and screensavers are born.  It’s the place for lovers and those in search of ultimate relaxation; it’s the view of luxury.  To visit Fiji is to live the high life. But the island nation in the South Pacific is more than a pretty beach. Even though I think I need to go there and investigate this myself.

Where the name Fiji came from made me roll my eyes. The word isn’t Fijian at all.  They call their country Viti in their own language.  The word “Fiji” came from the English pronunciation of Fisi, the name for the islands that their neighbor Tonga gives them. 

Fiji actually consists of 322 islands (of those, 106 are inhabited), and they also include 522 smaller islets.  The largest two are Viti Levu (where the capital city Suva is) and Vanua Levu.  Most of the islands are spread in the same general vicinity, with the exception of the island of Rotuma, a special administrative region, which lies about 310 miles north of the main islands. The average temperature in the cool season stays around 72ºF. (This sounds absolutely perfect. I wonder if I can “work from home” from Fiji.) It’s home to many coral reefs and a wide variety of marine life.

Pottery found on the islands dates settlement between 3500-1000 BC, although it’s not exactly clear the order of migration.  Some historians believe the Lupita peoples, or early ancestors to the Polynesians may have been the first inhabitants on the islands; it’s also believed that the Melanesians were the second major group of people to land on the islands before moving on farther to Samoa, Tonga, and even Hawai’i.  Most of the islands in the South Pacific have been trading with each other from the beginning of civilization.  During the 19^th century, stories of cannibalism and fierce tribes kept many of the European steering clear of the Fijian islands. One of the most macabre characters from history is the chief Ratu Udre Udre.  He’s considered by the Guinness Book of World Records to be the “most prolific cannibal.” It’s been noted that he has consumed between 872-999 people, keeping a stone for each person he ate. He was under the influence of the crazy idea that if he consumed his 1000^th person, he would gain immortality.  (And who’s going to tell him otherwise? If you did, you’d probably be helping his cause.) It wasn’t until Abel Tasman (yes, the same guy who discovered Tasmania Island and New Zealand) set sight on Fiji in 1643, although he never actually landed there.  Most of the Europeans who landed here were missionaries, whalers, and those who were in the sandalwood trade and sea cucumber trade (apparently, there was such a thing). Eventually, the warring tribes ceased under the leadership of the chief Ratu Seru Epenisa Cakobau. The British then took over the islands in 1874, bringing over laborers from India to work the sugar plantations.  However, they also brought on a measles epidemic that wiped out nearly 40,000 Fijians (about one-third of the population at that time). Fiji was granted their independence from Britain in 1970, and since then, suffered through two military coups in 1987, another in 2000, and a fourth one in 2006. 

The capital city of this island country is Suva, on the southeast coast of the main island of Viti Levu.  Even though it is the capital, it’s not the largest city; that would be nearby Nasinu.  Suva is not only home to the nation’s political and administrative districts, but the larger metropolitan area is home to many of the nation’s top universities and colleges, business districts, shopping centers, and sports arenas.  In fact, Suva has hosted the South Pacific Games three times in the forty years it has been running.  The city itself is multiracial and multicultural, as is most of the country. Museums, libraries, parks, and theatres dot themselves across the city as well.  In 1953, Suva suffered through the most devastating earthquake in its history.  The 6.75 earthquake killed eight people and caused nearly a half-million dollars in damage (1953 figures in US dollars).

Fiji has an abundance of forest, fish, and mineral resources making it one of the most productive economies in the South Pacific.  The sugar industry is one of the nation’s leading industries; they are number two in receiving sugar subsidies in the world (after Mauritius).  The islands are also dependent on tourism.  Resorts and local transportation are also dependent on the tourism boom. Trade, international banking, investment, and housing are growing, but it’s still a criticized sector of the economy, especially under the rule of a military government.

A large portion of Fijians is Christian, thanks to the British influence. This is probably one of the few countries where the Methodist Church is the largest denomination.  Other denominations include Roman Catholic, Assembly of God, Seventh-Day Adventist, The Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter-Day Saints, and the Anglican Church. Of the Indo-Fijians, most are either Hindu or Muslim with a small portion of Christians.  Of those who practice Hinduism, most are of the Sanatan sect with a small number of followers of Arya Samaj sect. The vast majority of Muslims are Sunnis. Baha’i and Jewish populations are also minutely represented in Fiji as well.

Bula = Hello

The Fijian language is the official language of Fiji.  English and Fiji Hindi also have official status as well. Fijian is a part of the Malayo-Polynesian family of languages, and while there are many dialects, Standard Fijian is based on Bau, an island in the eastern region.

Professional golfer and champion Vijay Singh was born and raised in Fiji (he’s of Indo-Fijian background, although he lives in Florida now). Nalini Krishan is another famous Fijian – she played the character Bariss Offee from the Star Wars movies Attack of the Clones and Revenge of the Sith.  It’s hard to recognize her because of all the make-up.  Rugby is huge in Fiji. And by that, I mean, some ten percent of the population plays rugby and the others watch. Years ago, I was making my way through the American Film Institute’s “100 Years…100 Movies” list (the 1998 version).  Number 86 on that list was the 1935 film Mutiny on the Bounty.  While the movie is criticized for it’s historical inaccuracies, it’s been said that after Captain Bligh and 18 of his men were set adrift by the mutineers in 1789 off the coast of Tahiti, they drifted into Fijian waters and narrowly escaped Fijian war canoes. The International Date line runs just to the right of the island group, and was angled to include most of the islands; however, it does runs through the middle of the island of Taveuni – at one point, you can put one foot in today and one foot in yesterday.  And yes, Fiji Water, one of the most expensive bottled waters I’ve ever purchased, is actually water from Fiji. So, grab your Fiji Water, if your bank account allows, and follow me to Fiji (I wish that were a literal statement; well, ok, no I don't. I don't want EVERYONE to go with me. I'm way too introverted for that. Just keep reading, ok?).

Up next: holidays and celebrations

ETHIOPIA: THE FOOD

I’ve been pretty excited about this meal ever since I found these recipes. And it seems like everything keeps coming up Ethiopia.  First I saw a BuzzFeed list on the best Ethiopian foods to try – which of course I’ve borrowed a few of their recipes. And then I saw a new Ethiopian restaurant that’s being put in an old building across the street from the Central Library in Indianapolis. I can’t wait until it opens. And now that I’m feeling much better, I’m ready to eat!

Essentially, Ethiopian food tends to be a layer of flat bread called injera and dollops of various stews and dishes are placed on it. I’m making six different dishes that generally don’t take too long to make (however, I made six, so it took longer than I calculated). Forget the silverware – Ethiopians scoop up the food with the bread.  I am unfortunately leaving out one of the most important part of Ethiopian cuisine: coffee.  And that’s hard to believe for such a coffee aficionado as myself to forget this part. But I did buy mead (honey wine; albeit, its not their traditional wine called tej, which is a variant of mead, but it’s close enough and still tasty).

Cool as... herbed cottage cheese. 

I started the night before with making a couple of the easier dishes that are served cold.  I picked three cold dishes and three warm dishes.  The first one I made was called iab.  It’s small curd cottage cheese, a little plain yogurt, lemon zest, salad herbs (I didn’t know what this was – I added a little dried bouquet garni herbs and a touch of tarragon, even though it’s probably not Ethiopian), dried parsley, salt, and black pepper.  Stir it up, and it’s actually quite tasty.  It’s good as a chaser to the spicier dishes.

I really don't care if no one likes this. It's all mine. 

Next, I made an Ethiopian beet salad. Instead of buying actual beets and boiling them, which takes forever, I bought some canned ones cut shoestring style, mixed in some lemon juice (from the lemon I just zested), chopped shallot, diced jalapeño, and a little salt and pepper. I love the spiciness of the pepper, the sour of the lemon juice, and the sweetness of the beets. It was the trifecta of deliciousness in my mouth. 

Mmm, lentils. Really. I'm gonna get healthy on all this good food. 

I also soaked some lentils overnight before for azifa.  When they were ready, I boiled the lentils until they were tender, drained them and mashed them a little. Then I mixed a little lemon juice, a can of diced tomatoes, a chopped green chile, some onion, a little salt and pepper, and a little bit of mustard.  It’s served chilled. This one was really good – two thumbs up.

Heck, I could put chicken or sausage in this and make a pretty meal out it it, too. 

Fossolia is the first of the dishes served warm.  I started with sautéing onion until they were soft and then added a little oil and some tomato paste and let “simmer.” It was really thick.  After a minute, I added in the green beans and carrots and let simmer covered for about 10-15 minutes – then I added in a can of diced tomatoes, ginger, garlic, and some salt, letting it simmer again until the vegetables were soft. I thought it was a little heavy on the tomatoes, so maybe next time, I’ll only use a half can.  But otherwise, it was really good.

OK, show of hands. Who doesn't like collard greens? If you raised your hand, just get out. 

The next warm dish I made was called gomen wat. (I laughed at the name, because the word “gomen” in Japanese means “I’m sorry.” However, there’s nothing to be sorry about here.) I chopped some collard greens and put them in a pot with 2 cups of water and boiled them, reducing it once to let it simmer for about 20 minutes. Then I drained the water but kept a little in reserve.  Then I sautéed onions in olive oil in a separate pot, stirring in garlic and adding the collards back in with a tad more olive oil and the reserved water.  After I let this simmer for 10-15 more minutes, I added in some diced green pepper, lemon juice, salt, turmeric, paprika, allspice, and ginger, and let it simmer until the green pepper was soft.  I love collard greens, and I thought this was a really good recipe.  I might make this again, but instead of green peppers, I might try to use baby bella mushrooms. 

One of my favorite dishes of today's cooking escapade.

The last dish I made was doro wat.  This starts the same way with sautéing the onions in oil and adding in the spices (cayenne pepper, paprika, black pepper, and ginger).  Then I add in my chicken that had been soaking in a water-lemon juice concoction, covering it to let simmer, adding a little of the water to the pot. I had to add in some flour to thicken it up.   Once it was almost done, I threw in some peeled hard-boiled eggs.  This was really, really tasty.  I liked this, and although I wasn’t sure about the eggs, it was a nice touch. 

So good, so versatile. 

Finally, time to make the bread.  Actually, I got the dough ready before I started cooking today.  The true recipe calls for teff flour, but it was a little harder to find, and since I only needed a ¼ cup of it, I went with an alternate recipe.  The dough consists of white flour, wheat flour, and cornmeal with dry yeast and warm water mixed together, and then allowed to rest for at least an hour (but luckily for me, it can sit as long as 3-6 hours).  Once I was ready to make the injera, I gave it a good stir, slowly stirred in some water to thin it out.  I sort of messed up the very first one, not fully realizing how quickly it will cook, and it got stuck to the bottom of my skillet. So… with a lightly oiled griddle, I added some of the thinned batter and cooked it (this time, I was watching).  Injera has been described as being thicker than a crepe but not so thick as a pancake.  It’s also important not to flip it: it’s ready when the entire top is covered in bubbles and doesn’t look glossy anymore. This allows the injera to be a light, airy flatbread, good for soaking up food.  I thought it had a good flavor that complimented the food when picking it up.  Sometimes I think wheat can taste really earthy, but I think the mix of white and wheat flours cut it.

The final product. It certainly did not disappoint. And the scarf my mom bought me makes a cameo appearance since it's too hot to wear it now.  It matched the food and begged to be included.  

While the kids were a little leery about eating without silverware (even though they do this at every other meal – they must’ve thought this was a set-up for me to yell at them or something), I think they liked it. At least my daughter and husband did. I’m not so sure about my finicky son.  I am fascinated by this country and really enjoyed doing this one. But now, as I finish my mead, this does mark the end of the “E” countries, and now I need a new file folder for my recipes. 

Up next: Fiji

ETHIOPIA: MUSIC AND DANCE

Ethiopia’s diversity can be heard in the diversity of its music.  Different regions have their own prominent styles of musical forms based on historical influence – whether it be Christian influences or Muslim influences or simply folk music. Much of Ethiopian music is based on a pentatonic modal system, similar to and influencing the music in other neighboring countries as well.  When playing these pieces on traditional instruments, it’s not tempered (meaning that each pitch has an unequal distance between the one above it and below it – it’s tuned differently than modern instruments).  Music of the highlands is typically monophonic (having one melody line) or heterophonic (having more than one voice, but playing similar lines).  Some southern music produces polyphonic singing (having more than one voice playing/singing individual lines – some in these areas employ four or five parts at the same time). 

This diversity in musical style and ethnic groups understandably leads to different dance styles throughout the country.  Many of these dances utilize the upper body: the head, the shoulders, and the chest.  It seems that generally, the steps aren’t as vigorous as the upper body parts, but there are some regions that move the whole body more than others.  In some dances, the women will spread their skirts out as part of the dance, and others will use rattles and fringe on their body to accentuate the music. 

Some of the common instruments heard in Ethiopian music include masenqo (one-stringed bow lute), krar (six-string lyre), begena (large ten-string lyre), washint (bamboo flute), malakat (trumpet-like instrument), fanta (pan flutes), senasel (a type of sistrum), quachel (a small gong), toom (somewhat like an mbira), kebero (hand drum), nagarit (hand drum played with a curved stick), and other variations of these instruments. 

There are several contemporary musicians from Ethiopia that I’ve listened to in the past week or so.  I liked Teddy Afro’s sound. It has that “world music” feel to it, with distinct African drumming rhythms underneath melody lines. The first track was in 6/8 (or some other kind of triplet meter), and other songs from the album Tikur Sew often used triplet rhythms.  The use of harmonies is a unifying practice.  Another musician, Aster Aweke, fell into the same style of music as Teddy Afro in my opinion, although with a little more “soft rock” feel to her music -- minus the harmonies and African drumming of Teddy Afro.

The musician Gigi has several songs from the album Peace, Love and Respect that sounds like indie rock.  (I really wished they would’ve used the Oxford comma in the title – it drives me crazy.) I liked this album because I’m a fan of the indie rock sound -- it’s very much Western-influenced. I did find that this album is available on iTunes for $9.90.  (Yes, I’m trying to figure out a way to convince my husband I should buy this.)

And listening to some slightly older music, I found a Tilahun Gessesse compilation. He’s considered one of the greats.  It has a sound that reminds me a little of early reggae music.  One unifying theme in instrumentation from Gessesse to Teddy Afro is the use of bass and guitars along with horn line. In some songs, the horn lines answer the guitars, and in other songs (like many of Gessesse’s), the guitars lay the groundwork for the harmonies while the horns have the melody lines. 

During the 1960s and 1970s, a style of jazz emerged called Ethiopian jazz, or Ethio-jazz.  And many musicians consider the father of Ethio-jazz is Mulatu Astatke. I absolutely love this style of jazz; I was immediately drawn to it.  One of the signature sounds is the congo drums and the vibraphone that he played while conducting the band. This music blended traditional jazz sounds with Ethiopian music and Latin jazz. I added the albums Sketches of Ethiopia and New York to Addis to London: The Story of Ethio Jazz 1965-1975 to my Spotify playlist and would listen for hours. The second album is a must have if you’re a vibraphone fan like me.

Up next: the food

ETHIOPIA: ART AND LITERATURE

Prehistorically, rock art was the most common form of art, and it was similar in fashion to other specimens from other regions in this part of the world.  After Christianity was adopted, much of the artwork was religious-themed.  Iconography was common, characterizing the figures with their bright colors and almond-shaped eyes.  Diptychs (panel paintings with two panels) and triptychs (panel paintings with three panels) were also common.  The churches and cathedrals themselves were fully painted in the European tradition.  There were some minor differences; for example, angels were often depicted as being heads with wings. 

Crosses were very important as well.  Many of these are highly elaborate and ornate.  These crosses were mostly constructed from brass and plated with either gold or silver.  Crosses used in processions could be quite large in size and quite heavy.  Smaller crosses used as jewelry were also made and worn.  Other metalwork, such as crowns, was made for both royalty and high clergy members. 

Textile art was also commonly produced in Ethiopia.  A type of lightweight, opaque pattern-less cloth similar to chiffon was used to drape onto religious icons.  Generally, traditional cloth designs have geometric patterns to them (although many are plain) and tend to be quite colorful. 

Basket making is quite common, especially in the rural areas of Ethiopia.  Depending on its use, whether for storing food, doubling as tables, or being used as bowls, baskets can range from small to quite large. Designs are woven into the baskets as well.   

Early Ethiopian literature was written in the Ge’ez language. The Bible and other religious writings dominated the early literature canon. The Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church still uses the Ge’ez language as the language of religious literature.  The Ethiopian Jewish community (also known as Beta Israel) still uses the Ge’ez language today as well. The Garima Gospels are the oldest Ge’ez scripts, found in Eritrea and thought to date somewhere between 390-660.

By the time the 14^th century came, the language of literature was starting to shift towards using Amharic, Tigrinya, and Tigre, depending on the location. Histories, hagiographies, and letters have been found that have been dated during these early years through the 16^th century. Works such as “Book of Axum” and “Book of Enoch” are two famous works written in Ge’ez.

Book of Enoch

Literature written in Amharic covers more works in the most recent centuries. Although it also includes religious materials, it also includes educational materials, government records, novels, poetry, and basically anything that is read today.  Because of their multi-lingual society, the government declared the Amharic as the official working language of the federal government.  It’s also the language of primary education.  Other regional languages may be used locally and for unofficial business.

Dinaw Mengestu

A few notable authors from Ethiopia include Afevork Ghevre Jesus (wrote the first novel in Amharic), Dinaw Mengestu (novelist, journalist, has written for many magazines and newspapers about current events in Africa), Haddis Alemayehu (Foreign Minister, novelist, his works are considered classics), Haile Gerima (filmmaker, member of LA Rebellion film movement [also called Los Angeles School of Black Filmmakers]) Hama Tuma (writer, poet), Mammo Wudneh (playwright, journalist, peacemaker between Ethiopia and Eritrea), Nega Mezlekia (writer currently living in Canada, works are written in English), and Tsegaye Gabre-Medhin (art director, playwright, essayist, poet, Poet Laureate of Ethiopia).

Up next: music and dance

ETHIOPIA: HOLIDAYS AND CELEBRATIONS

Christmas.  January 7.  According to Orthodox traditions aligned with the Julian calendar, Christmas is celebrated on January 7 instead of December 25. Many people will fast the day before and will wake up really early for the first Christmas Mass at 4 am! An old traditional story says that one of the three wise men came from Ethiopia. One of the traditional Christmas meals is wat (a spicy stew made with some kind of meat, vegetables, and sometimes hard-boiled eggs).  Gifts are not specifically given out on Christmas, although sometimes small gifts or clothes are given to children.  It’s generally a time spent in church followed by eating and drinking with family and playing games.

Mawlid.  Varies.  This is the Muslim holiday celebrating the birth of the prophet Muhammad.  It’s considered one of the most important celebrations for Muslims.  People will start the day with listening to the imam preach, and then will often sacrifice an animal (or buy meat) to distribute the meat to other family members and the poor.  There are a lot of festivities that include dancing, singing, and food. Because there are many multi-religious communities, many Muslims celebrate this day with their Christian neighbors as well, inviting them over to share traditional food and drink.

Epiphany.  January 19.  Also called Timkat, it celebrates the baptism of Jesus in the Jordan River.  Traditionally, a reenactment of the baptism takes place every year; a model of the Ark of the Covenant is shrouded with a cloth and is carried in a procession on the priest’s head. The priest will then bless a body of water, and many followers use this time as a day to renew their baptismal vows.  The day doesn’t end until the Covenant is put away, and there are hours of singing and dancing, followed by a feast with traditional foods.

Victory at Adwa Day.  March 2. In 1896, the Italians were looking at moving into this area in order to claim it as their own. However, the Ethiopians were not having it.  After two days of fighting at Adwa, the Ethiopians, under the leadership of Emperor Menelik II, were able to hold off the Italians.  Many people visit the monument and statue of Menelik II to lay wreathes at the base.

Day of Lament.  March 28. This day commemorates those who have died during the Red Terror, and is held two months before National Day/Derg Downfall Day.  This day is also called Candle Festival.  The Red Terror was a particularly violent political movement that took place in Ethiopia (and Eritrea) during the later part of the 1970s and most of the 1980s led by Mengistu Haile Mariam.  They rounded up anyone suspected of resistance to tortured and/or kill them. Some estimates say that as many as 500,000 people died at the hands of these madmen.

Good Friday/Easter.  Varies.  The entire Lenten season is a hard fast, more or less a vegan diet (no meat or dairy).  The first meal of the day comes after 3pm. The night before Easter, people head to a colorful service that runs from about midnight until 2am.  Then people go home and break their fast with lavish meals.  Like Christmas, this is more of a holiday for visiting family and eating traditional foods and drink. 

Labour Day.  May 1.  This day is to celebrate the worker; it’s also a day to discuss the state of the economy, jobs, and labor issues. 

Patriot’s Day.  May 5.  This day is in honor of all Ethiopians who fought to defend their country against the Italians, especially during the occupation years.  It’s a time for traditional music, dance, food, and drink, as well as educational and historical presentations.

Derg Downfall Day (National Day).  May 28. It’s considered Ethiopia’s National Day, but officially, it’s known as Derg Downfall Day.  The Derg Regime took over in 1974 when they ousted Emperor Haile Selassie I and led the country into one long civil war that lasted until 1991.  Government leaders often give speeches regarding those who have died during the Red Terror, and people pay their respects and visit the several monuments erected around Addis Ababa and the rest of the country. 

Ramadan.  Varies.  Ramadan is the Islamic month of fasting.  Muslims fast from dawn until dusk when they break their fast (called an iftar).  Each day, they are expected to read passages from the Quran and do various charitable works. 

Eid al-Fitr.  Varies.  This festival celebrates the end of Ramadan with an elaborate meal shared with the family.  People will cleanse themselves and wear new clothes to start this day.  Special thanksgiving prayers are also recited en masse as well. 

New Year’s Day.  September 11.  Normally, we see New Year’s celebrated in January, but according to the Ethiopian calendar, it falls in September (originally, the approximate end of the rainy season).  Some people will attend special religious services to pray for the coming year.  Children will sometimes receive new clothes, and the girls will pick flowers.

Finding of the True Cross.  September 27.  Also known as Meskel, which is Ge’ez for “cross.”  The Orthodox Church celebrates this holiday as a commemoration of the discovery of the True Cross by Queen Helena (or Saint Helena) during the 4^th century.  The True Cross is the one believed to be the cross that Jesus was crucified on.  Tradition has it that she had a dream telling her to build a bonfire, and the smoke will guide her to where the cross is buried.  Every year, a bonfire is built with wood decorated with daisies, and the people use the ashes to draw a cross on their own foreheads.

Eid al-Adha.  Varies.  This holiday is in honor of the ancient story of Abraham and his willingness to sacrifice his only son at God’s command. The day is started with Eid prayers, the largest gathering is at the Addis Ababa Stadium.  It’s often a day of paying it forward and giving charity to the needy. 

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